Grappling to get the boat out of the muddy Medway river at Yalding the other day put a light scrape on the hull. It reminded me that, along with the PRVs, another winter job was to fit a protective strake under the bow where most scraping occurs. Better to get the protection in early while the boat is newish.
Upstream the Medway had been high and even had a noticeable current. Two-up we were flying along at a good 5mph+ at times. Some of the chutes I was looking forward to were closed even though they look merely ‘sporty’, but then weir by weir, lock by lock the level started dropping so that never before seen eddies, whorls and rocks appeared. The super-sporty chute at Sluice Weir Lock was high and dry (clambering out onto the nearby jetty was a real effort) and by the time we got to Yalding near the end there was a 6-foot drop with muddy banks to either side on which you sank up to your knees.
Soon covered in muck, we managed to clamber out over the mossy weir wall and haul the boat up. Had I been less cavalier about my preparations I’d have read what was going on right here. Looks like the Medway chutes will be out of action till March (right). Knowing that would have saved half the next morning hosing myself and all the gear down.
Back to the strake. A 70 x 15cm Hypalon off-cut (close enough to Nitrilon) was 14 quid on ebay and once trimmed left enough for another strake or two. I had some Polymarine two-part adhesive (below) and glued the strip to the boat’s curved form with the floor inflated, even if that meant working the roller to press it all together was less effective. I then slathered some Seam Seal around the nose of the strake to protect it from unpeeling (less runny Aquaseal would have been better but a Seam Seal tube was open. More on glues here).
While the boat was filling the hallway and causing a hazard to domestic navigation I also bodged up a better system for the all-important footrest. A bit of inner tube now counter-tensions the footrest from the bow to keep it in position. It means the thing is now fully adjustable across a wide range of positions, can easily be fine tuned from the water, removes in seconds for boat cleaning/drying and needed no extra fittings glued to the boat. Once great thing about the Seawave is the multitude of attachment points on the floor and sides.
While on the river my aged Mk1 Alpacka U-seat base went flat, split right in the U. This seat is part of a lighter and comfier system I brought over from my Amigo – an improvement on the one-piece Seawave seats. It’s currently unfixed to the boat and the thin nylon must have ripped while yanking it into position on the river after getting back in. Again, I’m trying to avoid gluing extra D-rings to the hull – they’d limit seat base adjustment options anyway.
Better then to attach the seat base to the base of the backrest (right) with a couple of zip ties. The whole backrest/seat base can then slide forward and back off the backrest side straps and it all unclips from the boat in less than 3.7 seconds. I glued up the punctured U-seat but it won’t last, so I’ve ordered MkII Alpacka seats (left) from Packrafting Store: €70 delivered for a pair. From Alpacka US the seats cost $25 but their auto-calculated international postage is nuts, let alone tax and VAT issues. These seats have the U filled in like a webbed foot: stronger and less floppy for just ~12g extra weight.
Since then I decided not to fit the seat base to the backrest, but simply attach it to the floor between a similar the same adjustable strap and elastic tension system used on the footrest. So far so good. Will add a photo next time the boat’s out.
I’ve also ditched my old my SoT thigh straps (right). Nicely padded and effective though they were, the brass spring connectors and padding made them feel heavy and bulky at ~720g.
Instead I got some non-padded Anfibio packrafting straps from the Packrafting Store (without their biners or D-ring patches). With my biners they come in at 270g. The delta-straps dangling off the sides are a clever idea, designed to give a more direct pull when rolling a packraft for example. Can’t see myself doing that in any of my boats, but if there happens to be a handy attachment point on the Seawave’s hull I may give them a go (normally you’d have to glue on the D-ring patches supplied). Whether you’re rolling or just paddling, in rough water the more direct connection with the boat the better. I’m a big fan of these light but effective straps now. No need for paddling
- Urban Packrafting: London’s Regent’s Canal
- Packraft sailing; MRS Nomad S1 + WindPaddle II
- Tested: Anfibio DeckPack
- Tested: Anfibio Fly ultralight paddle
- A Packboat in your Car
- MRS Nomad S1 – a few mods
- Olympus TG-5 camera for kayaking
- Wandle: An Urban Packrafting Nightmare
- Packyaking in Whitianga (NZ)