Seawave Rudder MkII tested

Rudder rationale discussed
Gumotex’s 2016 factory version
Making the Mk1 prototype rudder
Testing the Mk1 prototype

Update 2019:
I’ve not used my MYO rudder since I made it in 2016 and sold it with the boat in 2020. Partly because I’ve only done day trips predicated on nice weather, but also it’s all just more faff and clutter, not least the lines and footboard. As explained earlier, for multi-day trips you must deal with the winds you’re given so a rudder is a good idea. But even then, you only notice your relative lack of speed (due to sidewind paddling correction) alongside others. Alone, you’re as fast as you are [grasshopper].
Rudders are not about steering as they are on powered boats; in a kayak they’re about enabling efficient, balanced paddling on both arms by compensating for the boat’s deflection by side winds.

While waiting for rudder bits to turn up, we went out for an evening paddle round Eilean Mullagrach. It was pretty calm but at no point did I think, ‘Darn, I wish I had a rudder’. When it came to turning corners we just paddled hard or dragged a blade and round we came.
But the Seawave rudder project carries on like a supertanker with a jammed… rudder, if for no other reason than it’s fun to experiment and a rudder can also work as an articulated skeg when locked out – something I may look into when it’s all done.

Ironing out the flaws with the prototype added up to attaching it more securely at the back and making the pedal board out of something more responsive and durable. By coincidence, all these components can be sawn from a single piece of 450 x 300 x 12mm LDPE chopping board (above) which costs from £8 on eBay in a range of colours. This is 50% thicker than the smaller board I used on the prototype plate so doesn’t need doubling up and gluing to make it rigid.

At the back I slimmed the rudder plate right down to a simple strip of 65mm x 450mm, glued a block on the end to better support the gudgeon swivel pivot sleeve and added the crucial second fixing under the portaging handle (above left). I also added a triangularish screw plate underneath (left, with red cord) so it all sits snug in the stern. With the hardware and saddle strap that now adds up to 306g (the rudder unit weighs 450g with its running lines). Even though it’s slimmer than the proto plate, it weighs about the same because it’s now 12 mil. But looks a whole lot neater.

The pedal board is from the same slab but uses stainless hinges, not zip ties. I’m reminded, you’re constantly making small adjustments as you paddle so pedals need to be as taut and responsive as possible. Once I’d trimmed the board and pedals a bit (left), with hinges it came in at 660g.
The board and maybe the pedals could have been made from 8mm if there was some to spare – but an 8mm board wants to be ~450mm wide to sit snugly in the boat’s side channels. Like the rudder, the pedal board will be subject to strong forces in heavy seas so also needs to be solidly jammed in. Meanwhile, I noticed the floor-laminate prototype board (right) gained nearly 15% in weight after getting wet – a sign it won’t last long. Still, it made a good template.

I do wonder if something like the Grabner rudder pedal bar (left, similar to Gael’s old H2) would be much lighter, as solid and as effective as my board. It costs €70 plus €30 for a pair of Zoelzer pedals.
I can’t really see how I could replicate that alloy footrest bar – out of copper tube filled with resin perhaps (like this motorbike rack)? It’s held securely in place without fittings by being jammed in the channel cavity between the floor and the sides (like my board), but a check with Gael advised me against it. As it happened, I’d pretty much decided the same mid-test run (below). A sliding ally bar plus seawater isn’t a great combination and might bend or break, or the pedals snap. I know the ally backrest bar on my Amigo wasn’t up to it and Gael’s backrest broke (though it was ancient). My plastic version may weigh double but should be solid. Interestingly, just as a bag of clam cleats turned up to make a quicker way of fine-tuning the rudder pedal lines from the cockpit, I see left that Grabner use them – a good sign.

The weather here’s about to crack and then we’re moving south, so in a rush I took the revised rudder plate out for a test with the creaky waterlogged pedal board. Heading towards Horse Island tidal passage, I didn’t need a weatherman to know which way the wind blew: from the WNW at about 12mph.

Initially, the boat needed constant small corrections to maintain a course, and there was some stiction, hopefully down to the zip ties on the soggy pedal board. I tried a few tight turns and marvelled at the control and how sharply the boat swung round like a pedalo. The rudder plate is now as rock solid as anything fitted to an IK can be. Again, I consciously tried not to correct with my arms, just my feet, which were twitching regularly.

At Horse Island I was way too early to pass through the passage, but as it was probably my last paddle here till next year, I decided to head for Badentarbet. Turning north, closer into the wind the micro corrections were no longer needed and the boat ran as if on a skeg, but without arm corrections. I’m pretty sure paddling 20–30° off the wind would have required arm steering, but I just hacked away towards Rubha Dunan on the mainland as the wind increased. When I tried a bit of downwinding, protracted rudder juggling was needed to keep the back-end in line.

I passed through a channel on the headland and the NW wind got steadily stronger so crossing the bay to the beach seemed to take ages of effort. By now the small corrections I’d been making were no longer necessary, perhaps something had bedded in, the knots had tightened up or, like riding a bike, I’d just got the knack of minimal rudder movement to keep the boat on track. But upwind paddling is comparatively easy so I tried across the wind, now running over 15mph, and a bit more downwinding which gave me that unsettling Ningaloo feeling. This must be the weak point of a buoyant, windprone IK (especially when unloaded), and maybe all kayaks and canoes too. The chop was only a foot high but were there a swell of a metre or more, the rudder would be briefly lifting and the stern sliding. I wonder if in such conditions a combination of rudder and skeg (which is always submerged) might be a way of limiting weathercocking? Or perhaps just more practice is required. There’s also another solution that might arrive here in time to try out.

As I neared the beach the wind was hard in my face but I realised I was actually on good form, unlike on the Tanera run with the prototype. So I hammered away with all I had until my strake hissed onto the sands. Paddling hard is all helped by my brilliant, bent-shaft Werner Camano paddle, no less than ten years old this summer. It still clips together with a satisfyingly ‘clunk’ and has very little play. If it ever got lost or abducted by aliens I’d buy another without hesitation. I was glad I’d got stuck into a longer test run than planned, and am now confident my MYO Seawave rudder is in the ballpark. Hopefully, the new pedal board will complete the job.

Total weight: 300g rudder plate + 450g rudder + 660g pedal board + ~100g rigging = 1.51kg (3.3lbs), or < 10% of the boat’s weight
Total cost MkII version: £20 rudder + £15 rigging + £8 LDPE board + £10 hinges + £2 fittings = £55

For about £200 posted I could have installed a 2016 Seawave rudder kit, but from all the images I could find at the time it was unclear exactly how it secured at the back – there must be their version of an unseen triangular underplate, but even then it’s still a stressed-out single point attachment. My additional under-handle fixture eliminates any chance of pivoting.

And the plywood Gumotex footboard (right) appears to sit loose and seemingly will also pivot on that single strap. Production versions may differ and let’s not forget that adding all this complexity also adds a risk of breakage or damage. The simplest solution is usually the best, but the 160-g skeg will always be clipped in the boat as a back-up and a Seawave is controllable (if much slower) with no tracking aids at all. It’s worth remembering: a rudder isn’t about day-to-day tracking, it’s about maintaining a course when the boat gets pushed about in stronger winds. In such conditions a skeg is essential and a rudder is an improvement, as explained here.

On the beach, prior to lugging the boat over seaweed-clad boulders, it took only 30 seconds to unclip the rudder mechanism from the plate to pre-empt stumbling and damaging it. Since then I changed the rudder plate mounts with tool-free knobs and an eyelet (above). When rolling the boat up it was best to pivot the rudder plate around the drain hole 90° to pack better.

Packboat rescue and survival aids

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The other year while leaning over on a salmon pen platform, my cherished six-year-old Benchmade Griptilian slipped out of the pfd and down into the briny depths. We ummed and ahhed about diving down to retrieve it, but I’m told these pens are 20-metres deep and can hold no less than 80,000 fish.

It was a bitter loss, all the worse when I saw what a replacement cost new. Long story short, I replaced it with a similarly anti-stealth orange PBK EMT Rescue Knife for a few quid (left). Like they said “you won’t worry too much if you drop it off your lifeboat and [it] sinks into the depths.” No I won’t.

At 150g it’s heavy but locks out with one of those cheap ‘liner’ locks and has a window-smashing stud, should I ever find myself in the nightmarish scenario of being trapped in a sealed aquarium. You also get a pocket clip, plus a handy line cutter – a good idea when your packboat begins to acquire too many lines and straps all adding up to an entrapment risk when expelled from the boat in lively water.

As it is, I’ve long had a quick-grab Benchmade #8 Rescue Hook permanently attached to my main pfd (below). With no sharp point, it’s a good thing on an inflatable and rusts quietly away.

Then the other day I decided I could streamline things by ditching the somewhat illegal PBK EMT with a proper, quick-grab kayaking rescue knife. NRS’s blunt-tipped Pilot Knife seems the main one available in the UK at around £44. The RRK is another with a hooked tip. The NRS’ locking mechanism wasn’t the smoothest from new, especially when reattaching. I gave it some WD40, but as it is the blade exposed in the shealth looks too ‘knifey’ when strolling into Greggs wearing the PFD after a peckish paddle. So I managed to elongate the Benchmark’s fabric sheath and the NRS slips in there unseen, while still being quickly grabable.

Once you’ve cut yourself free from your boat, the next thing is to alert others of your distress. Some sort of pea in a whistle body gives it a more punchy warble. Look up referee whistles on ebay from Fox or Acme. The piecing blast it puts out will be hard to ignore.

helporwhat — **Practice self-recovery before you need to.**
With IKs, getting back in alone from deep water is easy compared to a hardshell. Same with a packraft. That’s part of the appeal.

Seriously: the best way to dodge dangerous situations is to avoid them in the first place. That’s not as glib as it sounds. For me, who’s written and talked (and even won awards) about adventure travel for over four decades, paddling is one of the more potentially risky things I do these days. Or at least one where I’m aware of my limitations paddling mostly alone.
I got the whitewater thing out of my system some time ago and have settled on Grade 2 or portaging. At sea, I mostly do day trips in fine weather, which in the UK can mean days or weeks staring out the window. But I’ve yet to have a ‘moment’ nor come close to falling out of my sea kayak. On rivers, I’ve not been tipped out of an IK since my Sunny days and never in a packraft. That’s how boring my boating is! I’ve managed that by avoiding the high-adrenaline side of things: technical whitewater, pounding surf, gale-force winds, as well as being ready to portage or change plans mid-trip. I’ve had my fair share of dramas doing other stuff. For me the adventure with paddling is quietly exploring wild places with packboats. I leave the appalling fascination of this sort of thing to others ;-)

Seawave – Oh Rudder, How Art Thou?

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Seawave main page
Skip forward to MkII rudder

You might just like to fast-forward to DIY rudder Mk2

Within hours of finishing my prototype rudder I set about finishing it properly, and after a test run to Tanera Mor, made further improvements before trying it again.
The whole set-up wants to be mountable/removable without any tools or knots to untie. I used mini karabiners to attach the various lines but realised snaplinks with a ring are better, as they’re permanently attached so won’t get lost. I recall the fine wire clips on my Incept rudder and after hours of webbery found out they’re called fishing snaps (right). Let me tell you, you can spend a lot of time online trying to figure out if size 00 is bigger than size 8 and still end up buying ones so small you need tweezers to open them. Moving on, some ringed karabiners (black, right) now do the job.

I only know two knots from my climbing days and still regularly use the Figure of Eight, (right and left) a quick way to put a loop on the end of a line that’s easy to undo.
If you want to feed an Fo8 into a fixed ring (like the black krabs, above), just knot a loose ‘8’ near the end of the line, then feed the loose end back in and around the Fo8 all the way out again. And add a lock knot for good measure.

Lines shouldn’t be knotted directly to a fixed object, especially if it’s pivoting, but on the rudder’s lifting pulley there’s no room to attached a krab or mini shackle. The lowering pivot has a hole and channel for a nipple (right). I suppose I could track down a short length of appropriate wire cable, but for the moment it’s a job for our good friends, the zip ties. I also moved the rudder lifting knob to the right side: forward to lift (slightly more effort); pulling back to drop seemed intuitive.

In this pre-optimised form I crossed the two miles to Tanera Mor with a light WSW wind at 2 o’clock. First, like a bush pilot, I checked my flaps: up and down, left and right, then started the engine and pushed on the throttles.
Very soon something was wrong. I was having to rudder hard left and the pedals were leaning way forward. I stopped to knot the lines to take up some slack, but still the boat was turning into the wind and the rudder was very slow to respond.

With a skeg on, it’s usually the bow that pushes round on a crosswind. Was the new rudder assembly making more windage to push the back around? More stopping to add knots to the pedal lines.
I was also reminded that with a rudder you don’t just set it and paddle away, but are constantly making tiny corrections. You probably do the same with your paddle and a skeg, but never notice until it gets obvious (the whole point of fitting a rudder). For this reason a rudder wants to be as smooth-running and taut as possible.

The forecast was cold and northerly so, over-dressed in a cag and dry pants, all this foot and arm work took it out of me as I resolutely tried not to correct with my arms. It was a relief to arrive at Tanera’s 200-year-old pier. Mooring up, I noticed my rudder plate was dislodged (left), explaining why the pedal tension and tracking had gone awry. It was only when I got back that I noticed I’d fitted my nutted ‘underplate’ upside down and the nut had pulled out. Oh Brother What a Plonker. I locked down the plate with a zip tie and readjusted the pedal lines yet again.

It was also clear that my scrapheap pedal board was rubbish. Heels resting on the board (left) put them two inches higher than normal – not good for paddling efficiency, comfort or pedal actuation; perhaps quite good for neglected muscles. That was easily fixed by turning the board around.

After an hour exploring this historic corner of the island (now no longer possible with the new owner’s developments), I headed back and immediately noticed a much more responsive rudder – now you’re talking! It was like driving with all the wheels done up tight. Lower heels gave a much better angle on the pedals and I noticed I was now operating the pedals with the outer edge of my feet, as I recall on the Incept. Line drag was minimal but now the wood laminate pedal board creaked and the zip tie hinges were a bit mushy.
I’d already ordered another slab of LDPE chopping board to make a pedal board out of something more water-resistant than compressed dust, as well as the extravagance of proper marine-grade hinges (well, that’s what it said on eBay). I tried a quick bit of disc sailing too but it wasn’t really windy enough – more on that later.

As I neared Badentarbet beach the g-friend happened to swing by and, showing her some moves, I was amazed how sharply the boat could turn at low speed in the shallows, almost like a handbrake turn. Of course, this is kayaking not The Sweeney, but it’s good to know it worked. I also got a chance to test my newly bootied Kokotat dry pants – they worked like they should, too.

Back at the house, I realised the pedal lines had been cut before considering the need to move the pedal board forward for tandem paddling. Luckily, more Dyneema turned up next day, so I re-used the former yellow cord for the rudder lifting lines and ditched the saggy red paracord. Much tauter action.

The wheeled cord locks turned up too (right). I had a suspicion they wouldn’t work for adjusting rudder lines and I was right. They need tension from the same direction while snugged up against the edge of a stuff sack or something. I tried doubling the lines with two pulling the same way but the red Dyneema is too thin, hard-surfaced and slippery to work with these locks.

I settled on a ‘truck tarp knot’ then got the idea that the locking guyline adjusters off my Vaude tent might do the job – and they glow in the dark too! My Odyssee has guylines to spare.

I set about making small improvements, including adding two holes in the boat’s back deck triangle (as Gumotex do on post 2016 Seawaves) to make a cleaner run line for the pivot lines. It’s no great pleasure stabbing a red-hot poker into your favourite IK, but a side benefit is the rich aroma of burning Nitrilon rubber, not some cheap PVC. I’ll track down some nice eyelets later.

Once I realised the rudder board had come undone because I’d mounted the nut plate incorrectly, it was clear the strap looped to the rearmost deck line sleeves weren’t doing much. The main mount was through the drain hole, which relied on the large nut plate (left) underneath to stay fixed, plus the saddle strap (left) limiting any yawing. The whole plate could be slimmed down to resemble Gumotex’s factory version.

So I think I’m going to follow up on my own speculation and either form a triangular nut-plate below the deck to help keep the rudder plate in line with the boat, or I may make a new long thin plate (yellow, left) that reaches back past the kayak’s portage strap. With a slot to get round the handle, I’ll poke another hole in the deck and this way the plate will have two mounting points plus the saddle strap and will not deflect.

Rudder 1.1
While waiting for more chopping boards to turn up, I went out for another run with the Mk1.1 set-up. Much windier this time – 15 to 20mph from the SW. Normally I’d not go out in this, but the point of the rudder was to ease effort and improve control just before such conditions set in.

That was the theory. In practice I struggled to get out of Old Dornie harbour against the wind and soon had to put in to readjust the pedal lines. What now!? The luminescent Vaude clamps were effective but not a 4-second job like they should be. They can go back on the tent. A better line locking mechanism needed.
If I’d looked back I’d have noticed the rudder plate had become dislodged yet again by the forces pushing the boat around. That explained why getting right out of the harbour was such a slog, let alone tackling the 15-knot headwind and lashing rain. Deceptively, there were few whitecaps out there, but a deep swell was rolling through, probably lifting the rudder out of the water. Who’d have thought it was Midsummer’s Day.

Turning back, I hoped I might get a bit of a run on the wind, but control was even worse – shades of Ningaloo but without the mangos and barramundi. Back at the pier, it was a relief to see it was only the rudder plate at fault, although I’d not have been surprised if it was just too windy for any sort of IK-ing today.
While waiting for ‘what-do-you-think-I-am-a-bloody-taxi-service?’ to turn up, I strolled along the exposed shore on the off-chance of finding some LDPE jetsam, but all was glistening seaweed and frayed rope.

Rudder 1.2
I’m running out of time with the luxury of having the sea at my doorstep. That evening it occurred to me the rudder plate was always deflecting clockwise because the lip of one glued-on reinforcement plate underneath pressed against the stern and stopped it turning the other way. I did what I’d considered initially and glued a thin strip of LDPE to act as an opposing locating edge so the plate sat more securely once saddle-strapped down to the boat’s triangular stern.

This surely should be enough to keep the plate in place, but while I was fiddling I made a template for the triangular nut plate which might further help locate the rudder plate (right). When more LDPE turns up I’ll cut one out and melt another M6 nut into it. if this doesn’t work a longer plate with another through-the-deck fixture below the portage handle (as visualised above in yellow) ought to fix this once and for all.

Other jobs: trimming off the board’s unneeded flab to make the current haxagonal shape, filing down the edge of the rudder body where the lifting line rubbed (right), and one more tweaking of the rudder pedal lines.

I headed to back to the harbour where it was still blowing about 15mph, but within a minute suspected it was pivoting again, possibly from the pull when dropping the rudder. The added locating strip wasn’t enough. Who knows how Gumotex manage it but on this set-up the surefire solution is a second in-line fixing point (as above) and perhaps that triangular under-plate to stop the mount pivoting once and for all.

Partly, these issues are due to underestimating the forces that a combined 120kg of paddler in a 4.5m-long kayak moving at 4mph puts on a rudder and its mount. Add some wind, current and waves and how well the small blade is fixed to a big boat becomes critical. Nearly there, brothers and one clear benefit: the ability to sit the kayak on the ground with no skeg stress. I can see me leaving the rudder on there full time and adding some sort of bombproof lock-out to make it the mythical articulated / lifting skeg.

Read about the MkII rudder.

Tested: Honey woodstove

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Gumotex Seawave – MYO rudder

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Seawave main page
Refining and testing prototype rudder
Making and testing MkII version

Update 2019:
I’ve not used my MYO rudder since I made it in 2016 and sold it with the boat in 2020. Partly because I’ve only done day trips predicated on nice weather, but also it’s all just more faff and clutter, not least the lines and footboard. As explained earlier, for multi-day trips you must deal with the winds you’re given so a rudder is a good idea. But even then, you only notice your relative lack of speed (due to sidewind paddling correction) alongside others. Alone, you’re as fast as you are [grasshopper].
Rudders are not about steering as they are on powered boats; in a kayak they’re about enabling efficient, balanced paddling on both arms by compensating for the boat’s deflection by side winds.

rudnee5 — Mk1 version – needed improvements

After writing this a few weeks back I decided to try and fit a rudder onto my Seawave. On that breezy Mull trip Gael, in the ruddered Incept K40 (left), seemed a little faster than me and the penny finally dropped as to why.

A rudder can compensate for winds pushing the boat off course while you power on as normal. Without one, you’re pulling hard with just one arm in an effort to keep on course – that explained why I was a bit slower. Rudders have little to do with improving tracking which the Seawave does fine with the help of the skeg (though fitting a rudder means you won’t need a skeg). And unlike a ship, rudders have even less to do with ‘steering’ which a kayak does easily enough by dragging or drawing a paddle blade. But you can of course steer with a rudder too.

As mentioned elsewhere, another benefit of a rudder instead of a skeg is you can park the boat on flat ground without it pressing on the skeg – particularly useful when the boat is loaded and heavy (left). I’ve often thought about fitting a hinged skeg at the back of the boat to enable this. It’s a way of avoiding the complexity of a rudder but with the benefits of solid tracking which is needed at sea.

It helped that I found SoT rudders on eBay from Hong Kong (and now, in the UK) from just 20 quid. For that price it was worth experimenting, just like it was for a knock-off disc sail. Here in the UK a proper sea kayak rudder costs over £200 for a full kit with pedals.
I also learned that Gumotex had introduced a Seawave rudder kit on their 2016 model as I was halfway through this project. I’m glad I spotted it as it gave me some good ideas, while the cost and certain features of the Gumotex rudder reassured me that my MYO was a better way to do it.

ning-front — K40 with a (too short) rudder

Does an IK need a rudder?
Most of the time on calm day trips a skeged Seawave manages fine without a rudder. But on a longer multi-day trip like Mull, you have to deal with the weather you’re given, or sit it out. As it is, unlike hardshells, IKs are innately more windprone as they’re lighter and sit higher on the water.

I paddled with a ten-ton hardshell once in Australia with my old K40 (above). Where we could, we both had sails and the hardshell flew along (a rudder makes kayak sailing much easier). But me, I had to give up on day two; I couldn’t control my kayak in the 20-30-knot backwinds, and that was with a rudder. (I realise now this was because the K40’s rudder was too short).
On another earlier paddle in Ozzie in my Sunny I remember pulling hard on one arm for hours and days to counteract the crosswinds. I ended up with arms like a fiddler crab.
So with an IK the window of rudder usefulness – when winds are strong enough to require rudder correction, but before they’re too strong for all except short, white-knuckle crossings – is actually quite narrow. Say, between 10 and 20mph.

This’s why I’d sooner not spend £200 finding out if a rudder suits my sort of paddling. A rudder isn’t going to transform my Seawave and I may end up not using it much, aa with my disc sail (though having a rudder again may encourage me to give sailing another go). But a rudder will slightly extend my boat’s paddleability. When a brisk quarter wind blows from front or rear I’ll be able to set the rudder against it and power away with equal effort on both arms. Anatomical consequences? More Popeye, less Fiddler crab.

k40rudney — Stick-out K40 rudder is vulnerable. Plus it’s too short when the waves get going.

A Chinese SoT item (left and right) typically has a 400mm blade and is quickly removed on the pivot pin, plus can be both retracted and deployed using control lines.
And better still, the retraction sweep comes right out and drops over the back of the deck, not sticking out vulnerably like the Incept rudder (above) or the Gumotex kit.

MYO
While the rudder inched its way over from Hong Kong I came up with a rough idea to mount it on a chopped up HDPE chopping board held in place by straps or similar off the rearmost deck line sleeves, then cinched down with an extra D-ring glued under the stern – the only mod permanently added to the actual boat.
On the end of the board some sort of swivel tube was needed, or just a built block of HDPE with a ⅜” hole drilled through it to take the rudder pin. Rigidity, or minimal flex is important if the rudder is to feel responsive – another flaw I recall from the Incept. Mounting something rigidly on the end of an inflatable is tricky, but if my first ideas aren’t good enough, there’ll be better ways of doing it.

The way I chopped my 8mm board up and glued on the off-cuts for added stiffness produced about an inch of thickness at the back (right). And when the rudder turned up with a gudgeon pivot swivel sleeve, I decided it could be jammed into the back end of my board to provide a solid enough pivot.

This kitchen plastic is a dream to work with: it cuts easily, melts readily (no need for a drill) but is fairly light, stiff and rot proof. I mounted a clamp through the boat’s drain hole – copied from the Gumotex kit – and used an off-cut with a melted-in M6 nut (right) to grip the top plate under the deck. With a strap threaded through the rearmost deckline sleeves, this triangulated the mounting to reduce – but not totally eliminate – sideways pivoting. When it turns up a ‘saddle strap’ through the under-stern D-ring will hold the board down to reduce movement some more.

Control lines
Having owned a ruddered IK helped with setting up the control lines. The threading of the rudder lift/drop line pulley is fairly obvious – the goal is to create as little drag as possible and the many fixtures on the Seawave make this easy. I used bits of yellow fuel line (above right) to make runners for the line which is more or less a closed loop from the rudder sliding through a karabiner hooked to a deckline sleeve left of the cockpit and knotted up to a plastic knob (above left). Haul back to lift the rudder; pull forward to drop. The trick is the get the length right before cutting off the excess cord. I might have done better using zero-stretch Dyneema cord rather than cheaper paracord, but that’s easily changed if need be.

One thing the rudder needed to improve the lifting line’s angle was a smooth shafted M5 bolt running through it as shown left. The holes are already there – maybe it’s supposed to be like that (no instructions with rudder, but you do get 4m of paracord). The bolt isn’t tightened and rolls as the rudder lifting cord passes under it.

The rudder pivot lines run smoothly through more fuel line slipped unobtrusively under the redundant splash deck tabs on the hull top (right and left).

At the foot end attaching pedals to my big footrest tube (right) wasn’t going to work. I thought about using a smaller bit of tube but then decided a plain board with pedals pivoting on it at floor level works best – as Gumotex below right.

I found a plank of laminate flooring in the barn, sawed it into the right shapes and attached the pedals to the plate with zip-tie hinges so the thing would pack flat when not in use, but makes the pedals stand up which is handy.
This floor laminate was what I found lying around wanting to get the job done, but another slab of kitchen chopping board will be a better long-term solution. At least I have a template just as long as the pedal board doesn’t dissolve at the first splash of seawater.

The pedal board is moveable front and back same as my foot tube was (for different length paddlers or two-up) but I need to find some way of fine-tuning the 2mm Dyneema rudder line lengths to match. Something more than a spring cinch lock like you get on a stuff sack that will actually lock the slippery Dyneema cord, but doesn’t need tension like the cam lock cleats I used on my V-Sail. I ordered the wheel locks on the left which should work.

The whole thing took a couple of days to work out using a jigsaw, a drill and a camping stove plus a skewer. If I had to do it all again and had all the bits and pieces at hand and a better idea of what I was doing (ie; this again but better) I reckon it would all take me 4–5 hours. Total weight added is 1.85kg, but I saved 450g by ditching my drainpipe footrest with a thinner version at a quarter of the weight.

The costs were:
• Rudder £19
• Chopping board £2
• 5m of 2mm Dyneema and paracord £11
• Five mini karabiners £2
• Two cord locks £1.50
Other bits and pieces I already had or found lying around might add up to another tenner.
Lessons learned: it pays to think it over: first ideas may give the impression of momentum coupled with intuitive brilliance, but are not always the best.

Next installment: Oh rudder, how art thou?

New Safari 330 XL and Halibut from Gumotex

For 2016 Gumotex have a new model of the self-bailing white-water/surf Safari called 330 or 330 XL. According to the stats the new boat is 26cm or ten inches longer than the regular Safari and now 80cm- or no less than three inches wider, which means buoyancy is up 30% to a rated 130kg. Weight is down 500g too to 12kg.

I had the original pre-2003 Safari (left and right) – my very first IK and a very tippy boat for which I was too heavy and perhaps just too big. Part of the reason for tippiness is you’re sat high because a self-bailer needs a thick floor to put the your butt above the water level swilling around the draining holes in the floor. If that boat is also narrow and you’re an over-fed newb, then you both sit in water and have trouble keeping upright. Post 2003 Safaris were said to be much less tippy.

The new 330 retains the all-important thigh straps but will be a more stable, user-friendly IK that’s still suited to rapids and surf without the need for decks (as on the Framura or Swings) or for frequent bank-side visits to drain it (right). But you get the horrible, old-school Gumotex footrest and a seat with no back support. I’d glue on some hull-top patches for a proper backrest like on my Seawave or Grabner, and a footrest tube too.
The claimed specs are: 330cm long; 80cm wide; 12kg; max load 130kg and 3psi pressure with a PRV in the floor. The preceding Safari was: 304 x 72cm; 12.5kg; max load 100kg and runs the same pressure and PRV.

Lurking deep in the weeds we find Gumo’s other new IK, a fishing kayak called the Halibut.
I do like a tasty halibut fried in butter and lemon, and this well-equipped trawler is high-seated, heavy but reassuringly wide (3.75m long, 96cm wide, 21kg).

It also comes with a floor plate for standing, but energetic casting might take some skill to pull off. At €999 it’s quite pricey too, but there are probably more fishing kayakers out there (mostly in hardshell SoTs) than the rest of us put together.

iSUP: a new way to get in trouble at sea

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by Gael A

One day during my annual paddle off western Scotland, while waiting out a gale near Glenuig and enjoying some familiar Highland music (howling wind, drumming rain, crashing waves, whistling guy lines), I lay daydreaming of my imminent summer holidays in Sardinia. What would be the best use of these heavenly three weeks of typical Mediterranean conditions: hot days, warm water and mostly moderate wind? I needed a new way to roam this now familiar place. I’d kayaked the Ogliastra coast several times, hiked most of the hinterland, and wasn’t interested in mountain-biking or climbing. I wanted to try something new and that’s when stand-up paddle-boarding came to mind. According to some fellow paddlers who’d taken up SUPing some years ago, it was particularly enjoyable on calm seas with a light wind, no current and insignificant chop, allowing the paddler to see deep into the clear water below and enjoy a higher-than-normal viewpoint.

Quick iSUP Q&A

How far do you get on a good day?

Between 15 and 20 km. Paddling time is more relevant than distance. Sea and wind conditions have a greater influence on the distance you can paddle. I do usually 2 to 4 hours a day.

I hope you are standing up and not kneeling or sitting like I often see around here.

Yes I am. Paddling a board seated or kneeling is very uncomfortable. This summer I found out that most SUP owners use it as a kayak with a double blade paddle and some with a SoT seat.

What is the magical appeal of SUP? It won’t be the speed and range.
Is it the standing, maybe easier to look around and breathe fully than sitting.

More fun.
I was willing to try something new, provided it would be simple and use a paddle. Setting up a SUP is very straightforward and yes you see more things standing up. When conditions are favourable I like to potter along a craggy shore exploring nooks and crannies then return to base on a more direct route, like I would do with any other paddle craft.

Do you fall in often?

Not anymore, but it still happens.

Do you have to watch the weather more or less than IK conditions?

Definitely more. I try to avoid paddling in headwind or side wind, or on complicated sea state : staying upright on a SUP in steep waves is exhausting compared to riding them sitting in a kayak.

Back home, a bit of sit-down web surfing convinced me a SUP board would definitely be my next beach toy. SUPing is a fast-growing sport (if not the fastest according to some) so there are heaps of manufacturers offering flotillas of models in various materials, shapes, sizes and prices. Moreover, a wide range of inflatable models are available in this booming market, and thanks to innovative drop-stitch technology, most can take up to 20psi, (1.38 bar) making them almost as rigid as regular solid boards. As in the realm of kayaks, iSUPs aren’t as sleek and swift as solid boards, but they’re said to offer reasonable performance as well the usual benefits of inflatables.

How I chose my board
In a nutshell, SUPs fall in three categories: short ones less than 9’ for surfing (the original purpose of the craft) and long ones over 12’ for racing, touring, and ‘downwinding’, which is surfing down big wind-induced offshore swells. Those in between are called all-rounders.
While sales people in shops advise a wide 30-inch plus all-rounder for beginners, web research leads logically to responses like ‘depends on your type of paddling’, just as with IKs. What is my type of paddling going to be? More or less the same as my IK-ing: coastal exploring mostly with the occasional bit of inland – ‘flat water’ touring in SUP-speak. Flat water might be any sheltered expanse of water, lake, river, inlet, channel or bay which doesn’t get too rough under the action of wind, though from my experience and that of many others, such ‘flat water’ can get quite bumpy at times. For that the longer SUPs are faster and easier to keep straight. More length also means more buoyancy and room on deck to carry a payload.
I bought an WSK 12’6” Race ST for around €600 from Kite Spirit near Auray in Brittany, not far from the Golfe du Morbihan, my favourite paddling playground. WSK is Kite Spirit’s own brand and is significantly cheaper than other top brands. It claims to be an original manufacturer, but all iSUPs are made in Asia. Sacrebleu: a French manufacturer using imperial measurements? I feel seasick! Someone call the Académie Française!

Specs:

12’6” long
29” wide
5.5” thick
26.5 lbs
18 psi
removable fin
4 cargo D-Rings
1 D-ring on the tail, 1 under the nose

As its name suggests, this board is supposed to be a race board which is why the width is slightly under 30”. Most touring/exploring oriented boards are wider than 30”. They are a bit more stable, but are slower.
ST stands for Super Thick. The advantages of this 5½” (14cm) thickness are stiffness and buoyancy. Stiffness is even more important for a SUP than for an IK. It would be very difficult to keep balanced on a sagging board, speed and manoeuvrability would be poor: for that we have Slackrafts. Buoyancy enables a heavier payload or paddler but it also means more windage. At 12kg the 12-6 ST is very comfortable to carry.

Unpacking the bundle
iSUPs are generally sold with a fin, a repair kit, a pump, a paddle and a carry bag. The 12-6 Race ST uses a US Fin Box: a commonly used slotted box that allows fitting various fin styles. You guessed it; mine is a classic style deep fin for all-around paddling. It’s held in position by a small screw and plate which requires a screwdriver unless you use hand-tightened screws. For both types I use my Gerber multi-tool that goes into my repair kit.

Pump
The pump (1.25 kg) is a tough, simple, single-action barrel pump with a built-in pressure gauge. The weak part is the cheap plastic tube that doesn’t inspire confidence.

Repair kit
The repair kit (183g) includes glue, patches and valve key neatly stored in an orange cylindrical container with enough room for other tools and spare parts. I added the multi-tool and a spare fin screw in it.

Carry bag
The carry bag is a cheap piece of canvas with shoulder straps which wouldn’t survive the rough baggage handling in airports. However it should survive a journey from a car park to the beach.

Additional equipment
I bought an adjustable 500g carbon-fibre paddle which can be extended to the 225cm length I need. As a spare, I took a three-part adjustable (782g). By putting the blade on the shaft of my two-part paddle, I get a kayak style paddle for handling strong headwinds or swift currents.

Leash
Just as sure as the sea is wet I’m sure to fall off on the water but don’t want to be separated from my board. At sea any inflatable object will be carried away by the wind faster than most can swim. Instead of buying a fancy surf-like leash, I use my old wave-ski one which I also in my IK.

Other stuff
On a SUP you need to carry the same basic kit:

Painter / towline
Straps, bungee cords or cargo net to lash down equipment on deck
Map (in a watertight case) and compass or GPS
Safety kit (signalling mirror, whistle, flares, flashlight)

Much like with my open decked touring IKs, all the gear must go into dry bags tied down on deck. Multiple cargo tie-downs allow for a large quantity of gear to be carried on the nose and tail. While my 12.6 ST sports four D-rings on the front deck, I purchased four more from the local Red Paddle reseller (sold without the plastic ring) to be glued on the rear deck.

On the Water
End of July I got a chance to try out my SUP. On that day, after a late lunch the sky darkened with ominous black clouds over the Sardinian mountains. Most people left and we had the beach for ourselves – all the better for my first attempt at riding my board.
Conditions were perfect: no wind, flat sea, incredibly warm water. As advised in all beginner lessons I’d watched on youtube, I put the board in a foot of water with leash attached, knelt on it and paddled 20 meters then tried to stand up.
I knew how hard it would be to just stand up and maintain balance and had imagined the first 20 minutes would be very frustrating for me and very entertaining for the spectators. Actually they were, even though the only onlooker was my wife.
To make things worse, I made some mistakes like wearing my Tevas instead of barefoot, not washing the sand off the deck, and falling forward on the board, as I did when I tried to stand up. Next time I fell in the water and soon I was exhausted. My knees were raw, my hands were bleeding and my chest and forearms sore from rubbing against the board.

Within about an hour, spent mostly swimming alongside my board, my balance improved enough to look up from my feet and make my first forward strokes. Like a kayak, the pressure of the paddle on the water provides some lateral support and when I gained some forward momentum I felt significantly more stable and my confidence increased. Now I could stand for 20 minutes at a time before falling while trying to turn too sharply or tipped off by the wake of some motor vessel.
The next challenge was to paddle straight. Since a SUP paddle is single blade, giving several strokes along one side then the other causes the board to yaw, even if keeping the paddle as vertical and as close to the board rail as possible. Although it proved impossible to achieve a straight line, switching sides about every 4 or 5 strokes produced an acceptable S-line while maintaining an almost continuous paddling rhythm. in spite of my precarious stance, my awkward paddle strokes were effective enough to drive me and my board along the desired route and reach the spots I was aiming at (buoy, yacht at anchor, jetty). The more proficient I grew, the more direct my course and the faster my pace became and the less I fell off.
Upon reaching my target I had to execute the next manoeuver in the learning path: turning. SUP turning manoeuvres are very similar to sweep and draw strokes with as a kayaker, with a big difference: in a stable IK, I wasn’t punished by a dip when I got it wrong!

A kayak has inherent static stability and a lower centre of gravity, plus the paddler is wedged in his cockpit and integral with the craft. That is not the case on SUP. Any force on the paddle tended to pull me off the board before the board turned. I had to bend my knees to lower my centre of gravity and pay even more attention to my balance.

Coping with headwinds
While paddling a kayak into a headwind can be frustrating, paddling a SUP in the same conditions is sheer drudgery. The board itself has a very low profile but the windage of the standing paddler is huge. In addition to the effort required to push into the wind, you of course have to deal with the wind-induced chop which sometimes gets the better of you.
The recommended tactic in a strong headwind is to kneel or sit: less windage, better balance. Should I have to paddle a long way against a stiff breeze, I’d replace my paddle handle with a blade and paddle kayak style.
On days when the grecale blew across the Tyrrhenian Sea I paddled up to a harbour breakwater. After a 50-minute slog and a bit of rest, I returned to the beach in 10 minutes, carried downwind by the breeze and gliding along the choppy waves.

Next steps
My last year vacation ended before I got confident enough to try an overnighter. Now summer is almost there and I’m prepared to resume my SUP education. I still need hours of practice to improve balance and achieve longer paddling times before attempting a ten-mile coastal trip. So far, after an hour on the board, I badly need some rest. And SUPing makes me very thirsty too. In calm conditions I could grab my bottle of water when paddling, but not in windy conditions. I might consider buying a fancy hydration vest, or just slit open the back of my old pfd for a water bladder, as Chris has done (right).

2016 Seawave with rudder option

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My MYO rudder (MkII)

The 2016 Gumotex Seawave has had the stern slightly adapted to take an optional rudder kit. They’ve also improved the velcro bands for the optional deck by using Nitrilon, but it’s the rudder that’s the interesting development.

Coincidentally, I was halfway through adapting a cheap SoT rudder for my Seawave (left) and the factory version (going for £200) gave me some good ideas. The Gumotex rudder kit could be easily fitted to first-model Seawaves, and possibly to other Gumboats with similar triangular stern decks.

For the time it took to make mine I could have fitted a Gumotex kit ten times over but with only these pictures I was unsure exactly how it was secured. I suspect there’s an additional unseen plate underneath the stern decking to help jam the whole set up securely into the back triangle of the boat. I also believe they supply some stick-on velcro which goes behind (aft of) the black knob. Otherwise the plate would be prone to distortion under rudder forces, or give a mushy response like I got that on my prototype version.

The Gumo’s rudder’s retraction method is a pull-up-and-in, (left) whereas my was a more conventional swing-up-and-over which puts the rudder right out of the way over the back of the boat. IMO this is better for negotiating tight turns in narrow sea chasms where an unexpected swell could crunch your protruding rudder blade.

At the pointy end the pedal board looks reassuringly basic (and easy to copy) and the only obvious difference between an old Seawave are the two line guides on the stern deck (right) which I added to my boat to make a straighter, drag-free pull on the lines.

A quick one before lunch

What a great thing a packraft is – like a water bicycle!

Inflatable Kayaks & Packrafts

Adventures with packboats

Seawave Rudder MkII tested

Packboat rescue and survival aids

Seawave – Oh Rudder, How Art Thou?

Tested: Honey woodstove

Gumotex Seawave – MYO rudder

New Safari 330 XL and Halibut from Gumotex

iSUP: a new way to get in trouble at sea

2016 Seawave with rudder option

A quick one before lunch