Tag Archives: paddle boarding

Packrafting Durdle Door

Anfibio TXL main page

The last time we paddled this part of the Jurassic Coast (video above; more here) we were zipping along under sail or navigating in choppy waters and I didn’t get a chance to have a good look around. Now the latest heatwave and strong winds has subsided, today I wanted to take a slow ride along this world famous section of coast riddled with geological marvels.

The Lulworth Estate owns this spectacular stretch of coastline and makes several million a year off what must be the most expensive car parking in Dorset. And while you can get here on a bus, I’ve got a new way of getting around for packraft day trips: an e-MTB which can tackle bridleways and traffic-free backroads with the boat shoved in the panniers.

My e-bike weighs 28 kilos – double a normal MTB – and, along with the delicate electronics which have already played up in the rain, is not a good candidate for seawater bikerafting. That proved hard enough the other week with my folding bike at less than half the weight of the e-bike. So at Lulworth Cove I locked the bike to a fence and covered it, hoping I’d not get clamped, then set off for the long haul up and over Hambury Tout to Durdle Door beach.

Thankfully some of the parking millions has been spent on a cobbled path making the climb as easy as you can expect. But in one go it’s still like 20 minutes on a cross trainer.
My plan was to trek to the far end of Durdle’s gravel beach, paddle through Bat’s Hole arch, then come back via Durdle Door and Stair Hole to Lulworth Cove. All up only about 4km. A neap tide was coming in and winds were a cooling 5mph from the east, turning onshore at noon.
Crowds thicken as you near Durdle Door and you’ll easily hear half a dozen foreign languages as pilgrims the world over come to view the limestone marvel.
And you can see why. From the top it all looks amazing, though not always after a busy day. I’m pleased to see the sea is glassy smooth.
At times Durdle Door must be the most culturally diverse location in all of Dorset, and is especially popular with people of an Indian heritage after a Bollywood comedy called Housefull 3, was shot here.
I trudge on and pass a woman inflating her SUP. Perfect day for it.
While the fine gravel gets jammed in my Omniums, at least there won’t be the nuisance of sand to wash off.
Approaching Bat’s Hole. By the time Durdle Door collapses into the sea and becomes a stack, Bat’s Hole will have grown enough to become the replacement, producing a seamless transition in parking fees.
The TXL zips along but oddly, I’m wobbling about on the seat like it’s over inflated, which it’s not. Unusually, I’d put it in with the baffles longways and wonder if that’s the cause. I turn the seat 90° with the baffles now across the boat. The wobbling stops.
Paddle board woman catches up but, despite the perfect conditions, I’m disappointed to see her kneeling, grappling with the over-long SUP stick. In the dozens of paddle boarders I pass today, only a couple stand up. Honestly, I wish someone would tell the kneelers and sit-downers they’d manage so much better with a kayak paddle, like this chappy, or even one of these.
Full disclosure: like gravel bikes, I don’t get paddle boarding, which merely goes to show how stratospherically out of touch I am with the popular zeitgeist.
I hop out behind Bat Hole and top up the TXL. These big volume packrafts often need a second top up 10 minutes in (it can be done on the water). My bodged balloon pump finally breaks (the better 2-part Mk2 version waits at home). I also install the inflatable footrest like I should have before setting off, then go all out and deploy the thigh straps too. That done, I’m reminded how connected and comfortable you feel in the TXL with all these things in place. It’s like standing on a paddle board!
A light breeze is blowing through the arch from the west, the opposite of the forecast. Oh well, it’s light enough not to matter and will blow with the tide for the ride back. On the far side of the arch an unseen air pocket is huffing and puffing and snorting with the swell.
Careful to dodge swimmers and unseen tombstoners (gruesome vid), I pass through Durdle Door and again leave the throng for now. I used to love tombstoning; the thrill of jumping into thin air and landing harmlessly, feet pointed and nose pinched. But falling 200 feet from the top of the Door would be very painful.
I continue through St Oswald’s Bay / Man o War and as predicted, around noon the wind pivots to onshore and ruffles the surface. I pass a bloke standing on his SUP with his Mrs laid out on her elbows between his feet, like a forward gunner. ‘That’s how to do it my man, with your reposing young lady providing added stability by virtue of a lowered centre of gravity!‘ I should have exclaimed.
I weave in and out of the rocky maze around Dungy Head, where it’s said late Neolithic farmers once span dried cowpats off the cliff as votive offerings. The practise survives today in Kentucky.
I reach Stair Hole, an intriguing network or arches and caves, packed with young revellers. You can enter a mini cove, but need to go out again then enter one arch to exit the other, again on the watch out for tombstoning lads and furtive snorkelfolk.
The Lulworth Crumple they call, this. Reminds me of Morocco’s Anti Atlas ranges where such formations are common.
I probe a sea cave with a sandy beach at the end, and am reminded on Moonfleet, just a few miles away
The sea view of Stair Hole. Note the boarder paddling with dangling legs; good for the pecs and CoG, I suppose.

Talking of pecs, on the right (east) arch I realise it’s not just another bunch of young daredevils egging each other on, but proper climbers taking turns to traverse the arch’s overhanging span. I was never into the clobber of climbing. How great it must be to free climb with just shoes, shorts and chalk bag, knowing it’s a short, harmless fall into the water. The bloke in the black shorts made it across to a round of applause; blue shorts bailed.

By now the sea has kicked up and is bouncing clapotis off the cliffs. But I feel stable and safe in the pitching TXL, partly because I know it’s not far to go.
Entrance to the calm waters of Lulworth Cove. It’s a shame to end so soon.
Walking back to the bike, I’m struck by the steepness of the path up Hambury Tout. No wonder I was puffed out. Ready to go, my boat and gear in a bag weighs 8.6kg.
Riding home, some bridleways pass right along the edge of the Lulworth firing ranges and I hear the sound of heavy calibre machine gunfire. They were still at it at 10.30 that night.

Did I tell you I wrote a packrafting guide book during Covid? I mention it as I happened to reread it the other day after having scanned something similar. ‘Information dense’ I’d call my style – they only gave me 48 big pages. I should have been nominated for an award from the ITF.

Trying out SUP paddle boarding

iSUP: a new way to get in trouble at sea (worth reading)

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Finally I got to try this SUP-ing everyone’s so crazy about, on a recreational inlet in north Sydney. Ideally it should have been an iSUP to satisfy the strict submission criteria of IK&P, but among the user-owners and rental places on Sydney’s northern beaches, it seems carrying or stacking your oversized ironing board to the beach or lake is no great hardship.

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I would guess mine was a beginner’s round-nosed planing board of around 10 feet by 30 inches wide. I read later this was a little under-buoyant for my weight, but I can’t say it felt like that, or looks so in the photos.
You read a lot about how SUPing is a good work-out for the core (stomach) muscles. Thirty minutes of flat-out SUPing a day for two or three years will turn a wobbling belly barrel into a granite-hard six-pack. But initially, I found it was my feet and thighs which felt over-worked from micro-managing my tippiness, though any balancing exercises must be a good way of working the core.
Conditions were a light breeze topping out at a 2-3 inch swell and, just as with kayaking, it felt a lot more satisfying padding into a slight breeze than having it behind you, right up to the point it becomes a headwind. I don’t have acrobatic levels of balance but I was determined not to fall in so edged off the shore very slowly. I only fell off when the skeg snagged a tree root in the shallows. It sounds like I got off a lot better than Gael did, learning to iSUP on his marlin-nosed racer in Sardinia.
Half an hour in I got over the initial wobbliness and, like all inveterate hoons, decided to see how fast will it go (mister). Who knows if I was doing it right, but I found a knee-dip just prior to putting in a good draw close to the board before standing back up straight and pulling back felt right. It would’ve been fun to try a couple hours of this. Note the bend in the long stick in some pictures.

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I did experiment with canoe-style J-stroking, where you give the end of each stroke a little outward scoop to counteract the tendency of the board to turn off course. But I can’t say it worked which is why most SUPers you’ll see swap sides every three or four strokes to track straight.
It’s fun to stand like a fully-fledged, chest-beating biped, but seeing as you need near-flat water I can’t see a SUP board being an irresistible travel tool as a packraft or IK are. On more turbulent waters falling in would be more common, which means away from the Mediterranean conditions I was padding in, you’d need to dress for immersion. Who wants the if they can help it?
Still, I’d like to give it a good go unhampered by the ticking of the rental metre. On eBay new iSUPs go from 150 quid, with quality used ones from £350. As with a lot of recreational stuff, buying used you can put in the time at your convenience to get a good idea for SUPing, then sell it for less than the rental hours, if it’s not for you. I must say I would be more attracted to owning a longer and pointier iSUP board (below), as Gael A writes about here. And then probably regret it once I failed to stay on it.
So for the moment, I think I’m happy to carry on renting when the opportunity arises.

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