Tag Archives: Teva omnium

Six Packrafting Essentials


The basic gear you need for packrafting adventures so you don’t end up as above, or simply just inconvenienced and wet
For general camping kit (sleeping, eating, washing) you’ll find lists all over the internet and beyond. I prefer a 1-kilo down bag, a roomy tent, a thick, full-length air mat and a Pocket Rocket-like burner with a big Tatonka or MSR 500ml+ pot/cup.
Below, I suggest cheap alternatives in green. A cheap alternative to a proper packraft is of course… a Slackraft! You’ll only every buy one once ;-)

1. A pack for your raft


Do you use a regular hiking backpack packed with your boat and dry bags within drybags, or a purpose-made drybag pack with usually a rudimentary integrated harness, or carried in a separate packframe harness as pictured?

If you’re a first timer and own a regular hiking backpack, make do with that, but having tried both I prefer the latter. You’re on the water so waterproofness trounces all-day carrying comfort. I find the best combination is a submersible UDB duffle with an easy-to-use full-length drysuit zip closure that’s tougher and as airtight as your packraft. It also provides high-volume back-up flotation should you get a flat on the water. This is important and reassuring. And with a genuinely submersible bag like this there’s not need to pack stuff in endless dry bags ‘just to be on the safe side’. A UDB or similar is as airtight as a jam jar.


For short approach walks like on the Tarn, or theKimberley, I used the UDB’s basic integrated harness. For Turkey which was mostly walking, I fitted it into NRS pack harness (above left and right) whose capacity exceeds its straps and your back. In Germany Packrafting Store sell the more sophisticated American Six Moon Flex Pack (left), a ‘drybag hauling system’. You can lash anything that fits within the straps in these harnesses, including your rolled-up boat.
Remember: with any big backpack the key to support and comfort is a stiff board or frame connecting the hip belt and shoulder strap mounts so the weight can be carried low on your hips, not hanging from your burning shoulders.

Cheap alternative: any old rucksack and a tough bin bag.

2. Four-piece paddle


Get a paddle that breaks down into four pieces for easy transportation. A paddle like this may not be as stiff as a one- or two-piece, but a good one like the Aqua Bound Manta Ray pictured will still be under a kilo and anyway, you’re in a slow packraft not a razor-thin surf ski. Some four-parters don’t like being left assembled when wet; don’t leave it more than a couple of days or it’ll be hard to separate.


Even cheap alloy-and-plastic ‘shovels’ come with adjustable feathering; an ability to offset the blades. Flat (zero offset) works OK, but most find a bit of offset makes paddling more efficient. I’ve got used to 45° Right (right blade rotated 45° forward) over the years. Left handers will go the other way.

Cheap alternative: A TPC 2-piece or similar.

3. PFD (‘personal flotation device’)


A proper foam pfd is bulky in transit but is essential for remote solo paddles or white water (as might be a helmet).
For flatwater paddles Anfibio’s lightweight inflatable Buoy Boy jacket (left) has twin inflation chambers, rolls down to less than a litre in volume and comes with handy net pockets and a useful crotch strap to stop it riding up when you’re flailing around in the water. Aired down at any other time, you’ll barely know you’re wearing it.

Cheap alternative: A used foam PFD.


4. Wet shoes
I’m on my second pair of Teva Omniums (left) which are do-it-all wet shoes that are OK for walking too. If trekking the wilderness for days with a full pack over rough terrain, you’re better off with proper lace up trail shoes or boots, but bear in mind that anything with a breathable membrane takes ages to dry once soaked inside out. I use membrane-free desert boots. SealSkin socks are another solution, while they last. More here.

Cheap alternative: Old trainers or Crocs.

5. Day bag or case


You want something light to carry your valuables when away from the boat in populated areas. Choose a bag or case which fits under your knees without getting in the way. Whatever it is, it will sit in water, get splashed or even submerged, so it needs an airtight seal. If it has handy external storage pouches or pockets, so much the better.


I adapted a Peli 1400 (left) with a seatback net on the outside and a strap inside the lid to hold my Macbook Air (right). Volume is a useful 9 litres, but at 2kg the 1400 is a bit over the top. I don’t really need to throw it out of a Hercules from 24,000 feet, but I do want reliable submersability so I don’t have to think twice if I flip the boat.


Recently in France I used a smaller Underwater Kinetics box (22cm x 16 x 8; 540g, left) used on ebay for under a tenner. It’s about the size of a Peli 1150 but a bit less deep and took my Kindle Fire and bits, or camera and wallet and bits. Its light enough to carry away from the boat and also happens to make a handy camera stand for self timer shots. 
Otherwise I used my old yellow Watershed Chatooga bag (left, yellow), a 30-litre holdall with a big rubbery zip-loc seal and made from a hard, polyurethane that you can’t imagine getting pierced too easily. I can pack a flysheet, sleeping bag and airmat in there, but on the Tarn as a daybag I found it a bit too big to get my feet out quickly, and after years of use one flat seam was separating (easily glued up).
With both the Peli and the Watershed, I find opening a bit slow or effortful if, say, you want to get to a non-waterproof camera quickly. Nothing you can do about the Peli’s heavy clamps, but a drysuit-type zip instead of the Watershed’s seal would be better. I replaced the Chat with an Ortlieb Travel Zip. As for a camera? This is what you want.

Cheap alternative: large, clip-seal lunchbox and a plastic bag.

6. Repair kit


A couple of feet of Tyvec or similar tape and a small tube of Aquaseal is probably all you need for quick repairs.
Something I’ve never had to do in years of packrafting.

Cheap alternative: Duct tape and a rosary.


Packrafting shoes or boots

Round it all up over the years and my packboating footwear has narrowed down to Teva Omniums for light duty and Lowa Desert Elite boots for heavier tramping.

With an IK you hop in paddle away and hop out. You’re not normally tramping for days carrying your gear. Packrafting footwear (that is, trekking the moors and paddling the lochs, usually with a camping payload) requires an amphibious boot which will drain and dry quickly while giving you support on the trail.

Of course you can just use any old boot and let it get wet. Anything with a membrane (GoreTex) can take quite a while to dry.
On my first ever overnight packraft trip I used Keen Arroyos (left) and paid the price. I made the mistake of putting water duties (drainage/easy drying) above ground support for trudging cross-country with an 18kg load. With the thin soles and feeble lacing, I didn’t feel at all secure in the rough, and when I got to a long, road-walking stage the feet soon got sore. On any kind of rocky terrain or path they’d have been worse.

I then adapted a pair of less flimsy Karrimor Meridian trail shoes (left) I got for 30 quid, by pushing draining holes through with a red-hot poker. Shame, as they have an eVent membrane, of which I hear good things. They weren’t a great full-on hiking shoe and under my 95kgs the sole got mushy and the undistinguished tread offered little grip in steep or wet Scottish conditions, partly why I find a packstaff so useful. But they were better for loaded, rough-country walking than the Arroyos. And it has to be said they’re survived a regular sea-water soaking, rinsing, airing and drying pretty well for a pair of cheapies. Nothing came apart but it can’t be far off.

Brasher Lithiums (left) fitted me OK, had an usually stiff sole which also happen to make good MTB boots and they passed a test on the Fitzroy in Australia, although much of the time we were wading or even sinking in quicksands which were easier to get out of barefoot.

After a couple of nights I poked through drain holes (below) on the instep and above the heel so they drain as the feet point up in a boat.Back home on regular day walks the Brashers turned on me, rubbing blisters at the heel and then squishing the small toe as they were too narrow.

Another idea could be some Crocs. Remember the Croc Craze a few years ago? Their Swiftwater Mesh Deck Sandal (above) is an acquired look like all Crocs but goes for under 40 quid on ebay and weigh less than the Tevas. For something which gets squeezed out of a tube every few seconds in an Asian factory, I’m no convinced they’ll last so long.

Amphibious footwear
I’ve noted the interesting range of amphibious footwear at NRS, but get the feeling they’re cheaply made and the ‘tactical’ (that word again!) OTBs may not be much better, but cost more. OTBs make an issue of the many drain holes in the sole, but does any shoe really need to drain like a shower head when your foot takes up 98.2% of the boot’s volume? Pierre B writes about his OTB Odhins and suggests this link.

As a canoe and kayak lover myself, I recognized the same needs for an amphibious shoe with good drainage that is sturdy enough for portaging and hiking around a campsite as well as  toughness. I’m living in the US and last year I had the opportunity to buy a pair of OTB Odhin boots at a really decent price. I’ve only used them 3 times since, mostly in sand and mud, but I’m really happy with them. They are comfortable and the main feeling is “being safe”. They are very tough, the drainage is excellent and there is a kind of net in the sole to prevent debris, mud or sand to get inside the boot. There are three differents insoles with drain holes you can combine as you like, depending on what you’re wearing (bare foot, Sealskinz sock or neoprene sock…) they have as well. The downsides are the lacing system which is not very convenient and the price which is on the high side. I’ve never walked a long time in them, so I don’t know if they could fit the bill in term of packrafting shoe but so far, I’m pleased with them as amphibious shoes and I’m sure they are worth a try or at least, a look.

It was also suggested I look at jungle boots: membrane-free footwear usually for military use that’s designed for frequent soaking and drying. They feature minimal leather on the uppers, with Cordura nylon panels elsewhere, as well as instep drainage holes (left) like I bodged on my Karrimors and Lithiums.
Jungle boots tend to be high to keep creepy crawlies out, but at least these sections are not stiff and so end up light. Left is the British-made Altberg jungle boot. Silverman’s illustrate both types of Altberg J-boots which cost around £100 and use ‘amfibio’ leather suited to being soaked. I took a chance and bought a used pair off ebay; very well made with a solid, rock-proof sole, but a couple hours’ walking proved they were a little too big for me. I’ve compromised on boots before and don’t want to make that mistake again.

There are a couple of threads on BPL about packrafting shoes  here and here. Even back then the conclusion seemed to be that the definitive packrafting shoe – with good hiking support, drainage, quick drying, but that won’t fall apart in a year – has yet to be invented because packrafting is a new type of activity for footwear: requiring full amphibuity under all-terrain loads. Some suggest canyoneering shoes like the Five Ten can do the job, but I’m not convinced. This is a day-use water shoe oriented towards grip on wet rock which means soft rubber not suited to all-day load carrying.
Getting a manufacturer to take an interest can’t be so hard but how many pairs of quick-draining, hiking-tough packrafting shoes will they sell in a year? As it is, only some packraft users are into overnight hiking. But in case they’re reading, here’s a list:

  • No membrane
  • No mesh uppers, but a tough, quick-drying fabric that can take the knocks and is even salt water tolerant. Durability is more useful than the lightness and wet grip.
  • Good draining – particularly at the heel rather than the instep, as that’s how you drain a shoe when sitting down in a boat with your legs sticking out over the sides.
  • A thick, chunky sole, ideally from a boot not a trail shoe. One that offers solid support over rocky terrain and good grip in mud or wet grass. Custom insoles for comfort tuning can always be added later by the owner.
  • Proper laces. Forget velcro and cinch locks – that’s for cag cuffs and stuff sacks. Laces may not be high-tech, but they’re field repairable and still the best way to get a shoe or boot to fit a varyingly sized human foot securely.
  • A wide fitting (for me).
  • Some provision to stop stones getting in and possibly wearing holes in a latex drysuit sock (though wearing socks over drysuit socks is probably a better solution).
  • And great build quality.

Until that distant day comes I’ll stick with my Teva Omniums (above), even though they’re rather more for day-use and watery than actual overnight hikey. Update here.

Lowa Elite Desert Boots.